In lieu of images, this entry includes a video, above, and slide show at end of post. Enjoy :)
There is no greater feeling in the world than seeing a wild African lion striding across the savanna. Once you have been to Africa, you will never be able to appreciate a zoo again. There lies a great wild land, unspoiled by human influence. Winding dirt tracks through the savanna and the occasional fellow safari vehicle are the only evidence of man's presence in the majority of Tsavo National Park, Kenya. I hope it stays that way forever. Animals are everywhere. Some people might say that after a day or two of safari, the novelty wears off. You cease to be impressed every time you come upon a family of elephants, a grazing giraffe, or a herd of zebras. I never felt that way. After every turn there was a new magnificent experience.
It was a three hour drive to Tsavo National Park from where we were staying at Che Shale. Much of the road passes through an area that is dotted with small villages and homes. Here, children don't go to school. They wait on the side of the road for vehicles to pass, begging for food. The children from each village had their own characteristic style of 'trick' to get people to stop for them, like buskers on the street. Some lined up one in front of the other, from the smallest child to the tallest. Some waved at you with two hands flopping up and down. The most inventive arranged themselves into group poses that resemble cheerleading pyramids. They do this rather than going to school, because for them the hope of food is more worthwhile. The children shout "ciao" at the tourists in their vehicles, having learned this from the multitude of Italians that pass through.
Our driver was a Kenyan named Sketi. He had been doing safaris for 25 years and loved his job. He was fantastic at getting us the chance to see as much as possible. Safari drivers communicated by CB radio; when one sees a rare animal, he announces it on the radio and all of the safari vehicles make a beeline for the spot. On the first day, Sketi told us there was a cheetah sighting 45km away. We told him to go for it, and it resulted in a wild ride blazing through the landscape in our massive 4x4 jeep. When we arrived, the cheetah was still there-- resting after having had its dinner, a young water buck. Sketi told us we were very lucky, as cheetah sightings were rare.
The first lodge we stayed at was Voi Safari Lodge, high on a ridge, with an amazing panorama view of the savanna. It is customary for lodges to create watering holes, a guarantee that there will be a constant presence of animals. The typical safari schedule is 6am game drive, return for breakfast and checkout, drive throughout the afternoon across the park to the next lodge, check in and rest, evening game drive, and return before dark. The evening game drive of Day 1 was an experience I'll never forget. This is when we saw the lions.
Someone radioed us that lions were nearby. We arrived to the customary sight of many safari vehicles clustered together. My instinct was to look across the bushy terrain but to my surprise, three lions were casually napping on the side of the road! The male remained further back, more hidden, but two females soaked up the attention, un-phased by the gasps of humans and clicking of cameras. I think they knew they were superstars. We discretely left these lions after Sketi received a phone call that there were others nearby. We were the second vehicle this time, as two lionesses prowled around a watering hole, their bellies full from their supper. The sun was setting, and it made the mud and the dirt glow a brilliant rusty red. The other safari van left and we were alone with these two magnificent creatures.
Once the lionesses had their fill, they settled atop a large mound of dirt. They were affectionate with each other, rubbing against each other like big kitty cats. One lay down but the other remained stood, peering into the distance. She began making throaty grunts, calling into the brush. I thought perhaps she had seen the lions from just down the road coming by to join them. She was fixated, in a way that reminded me of how Bebe (our deer back in Quebec) would look when she was calling her fawns out of the meadow. We thought maybe the lioness was calling her cubs, waited around and watched, but ultimately saw nothing. The sun was below the horizon, and we had to return to the lodge-- it is illegal to be in the parks after dark. As we began to leave, the lioness descended from the mound and walked into the brush. I continued watching her and then, two small shadows appeared from the brush. "Stop! Sketi, stop! There are cubs!" I shouted. No one believed me, it was too dark to see anything now. I insisted that we stop, and lo and behold, we turned around just in time to catch two little simbas trotting onto the road to meet their mother. It was too dark for quality photos but I managed a few seconds of video which you will enjoy very soon. This was the highlight of the safari. To see lions with their cubs was fantastic. We slept that night listening to the sound of elephants at the watering hole (and, apparently, the roaring of lions in the night, though unfortunately I was dead asleep).
We saw more lions the next morning, a male "maneless lion" with his pride of females stalking prey. We then drove to Tsavo West National Park, which is known for its beautiful landscapes rather than the game. Tsavo West is rocky and mountainous in parts, with thicker brush. It is the home of leopards, one of which we were lucky to see. Leopards were Sketi's favourite, and it was great to see that after 25 years of doing this job, he was still so excited to get to see one, taking out his own camera and snapping photographs. We spent the night at Ngulia Safari Lodge, high up on a mountain. This lodge is known for having a structure made of branches, where every night they hang a piece of meat for the leopards. In the middle of the night someone knocked on our door and shouted something. I thought it was "Leopard!" I was tired from an exciting day and couldn't be bothered to leave bed, a task which would require the complex process of fixing the mosquito netting, so I thought "Aw to hell with it, we saw one today anyway." In the morning I inquired about this, and a member of staff confirmed that yes, when the leopard comes by, they actually go door to door and wake up the guests so that they can look out the window and see it. Talk about service, right?
Our final day brought us to Mzima Springs, a beautiful oasis populated with monkeys, hippos, and crocodiles. On the way to Mzima we had the chance to view Mount Kilimanjaro. As it was a bit cloudy, we could just barely see the shadow of it far off in the distance. We enjoyed a few more sightings of animals, including a giraffe directly in front of us in the road, and were out of the park by noon. Goodbye, Tsavo, hope to see you again. We had seen 4 of the "Big 5" lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, leaving only the rhino which was not typically seen in Tsavo. We had been to a rhino sanctuary, but alas they were all hiding from us. A four hour drive, this time, via a different route brought us back to Che Shale, where we recuperated from our exciting yet exhausting safari on the beach.
Africa was, and likely will be, the best travel experience I've ever had. Bucket list #1: check. The entire experience was pure wonder. From the eye-opening reality of people living in true poverty, to the majesty of some of the world's largest animals gracing the incredible landscape.. all of it I will treasure. I hope this great wild land can stay wild forever. Hopefully one day my path will take me back to the African savanna, maybe as a tourist, or maybe as a worker-- part of me wanted to quit my job right then and there, and move to Kenya to become a safari tour guide or volunteer. My travels have made me more aware, and have doubled my belief in the need for conservation so that future generations can also appreciate what I was lucky enough to see. I am happy to see Kenya has just passed legislation banning plastic bags, in the hope to clean up its areas of human population.
If you ever get the chance, go to Africa. Just go. Forget the cost, take your malaria pills, wear sunscreen, and just go. Because it is worth every penny, it is worth the hours of travel, it is an experience you will never forget. Until then, I hope you enjoy the video I hastily put together (I have learned that editing is not my favourite thing) and my photographs.